THE SOCIAL MEANINGS OF THE KEBAYA IN CLASSIC MALAY CINEMA (1950–1965)

Abstract

The kebaya, a traditional Malay garment, functions as more than attire; it operates as a cultural text that encodes social meanings, gender norms, and class distinctions. This study examines the representation of  the kebaya in classic Malay cinema from 1950 to 1965, focusing on its role in shaping social identity and behaviour within narrative contexts. Using a qualitative object-based approach, five FINAS-listed films were analysed through frame-by-frame costume observation, supported by archival and secondary sources. The findings reveal three key functions of the kebaya. First, it acts as a marker of social stratification, distinguishing class, morality, and gender roles through variations in design and styling. Second, it serves as an emotional register, where colour and tailoring communicate character psychology and reinforce cinematic narratives of femininity. Third, the kebaya mediates the relationship between tradition and modernity, reflecting broader socio-cultural transformations in post-independence Malaysia. By situating costumes within film narratives, this study contributes to sociological understandings of fashion as a system of meaning, demonstrating how visual culture shapes and reflects social values, identity formation, and cultural continuity.

Keywords: Cultural Identity; Fashion Sociology; Heritage Studies; Malay Cinema; Social Behaviour.